The Fall/Winter 2017 collection is inspired by all the things that remind Tory of Philadelphia, from her home in Valley Forge to the film The Philadelphia Story, starring Katharine Hepburn. Here, Tory details the season’s major trends.
Boy Meets Girl
“For me, Katharine Hepburn is the ultimate in combining feminine and tomboy. She had a natural femininity that shone through even when in men’s wear. So we played with that duality, embroidering tailored jackets with pearl button details and pairing plaid trousers with taffeta bow blouses. For eveningwear, we did jumpsuits and easy long-sleeved gowns, which are super-elegant but in a non-fussy way.”
Check Point
“Plaid is a classic in Philadelphia, but we wanted to do our take on it. We interpreted it in different ways: wool tweeds, as prints on silks and even did a blown-up version in shearling. I like mixing plaids but also love a classic check with pastels or florals. It feels chic and fresh.”
Outdoor Glamour
“The concept of ‘outdoor glamour’ came to me when I started thinking about my parents. We lived on a farm outside of Philadelphia, and we spent all of our time outdoors. My dad would go out on his tractor, and be perfectly dressed in a pink shirt and khakis. My mom would be in her garden for six hours a day, and then she would come down for dinner with wet hair, a lamé shirt and pants and look as glamorous and effortless as possible. I wanted to recreate that in this collection, and bring together the high and low.”
Turn Up the Volume
“We played with proportions this season. The long, full pants, for example, were inspired by Hepburn. Blouses come with exaggerated bows and dresses, with gently voluminous bishop sleeves. We even reworked the traditional Fair Isle sweater — puffy sleeves, skinny waist — making it modern. (More on this below.)”
The Classics, Remixed
“I love the idea of taking very familiar designs — whether it’s a Fair Isle sweater, a barn jacket or a corduroy pant — and making them modern. We played with proportions and reinterpreted these classic pieces — like that Fair Isle sweater with a slightly accentuated feminine shoulder or a barn jacket with patent and corduroy details.”