Fashion inspiration can be ephemeral, as fleeting as it is effervescent. Or it can be grounded in something more tangible that ripples into deeper territory. Tory’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection, where ideas flowed from art history into challenging the concept of women and femininity. Here, one of Tory’s favorite looks, broken down by inspiration — Fashion Math.

Look #35: Quilted Yoke dress, Cleo bag and over-the-knee boots.

This boldly colorful dress features a print designed by artist Francesca DiMattio, who shares Tory’s interest in the history of French, English and Turkish ceramics. Here, the artist riffed on a motif usually associated with beautiful porcelain table settings from centuries ago. Like this Sèvres celeste bleu dessert setting that King Louis XVI gifted to the French court’s British Ambassador in 1783. The collection also nodded to forgotten or overlooked female artists who are now rediscovered, such as Dutch Master Judith Leyster, who Tory learned about when she studied art history. The yellow-and-blue contrast brings to mind The WUS/Seven-Pointed Star Series, Group VI, Evolution, No. 9, 1908, by Swedish abstractionist Hilma af Klint. Meanwhile there are hints of famous Dutch Master flower paintings in the embroidered tall boots. And the middle-parted hair, half pulled up, when paired with oversized round sunglasses is reminiscent of style icon Lee Radziwill’s go-to look.