“A meditation on what lasts,” began Tory in her inspiration for the collection. Enduring archetypes were the starting point, but the design process was about reinterpretation rather than a full reinvention. The idea was explored through technique and proportion as well as the juxtaposition of sometimes disparate elements. The result reflected how women dress now: by instinct, not rules.

CLASSICS 101
Tory started with clothing shaped by history and utility and shaped them into something that was new yet still retained its original purpose. The peacoat in a longer proportion with softer sleeves and gold embroidered buttons. The Shetland crewneck patterned with raffia embroidery in place of traditional intarsia. The henley in a fine-gauge sheer knit with covered buttons.

WINNING GOLD
When it comes to true style, there are no rules. Tory played with the contrast of traditional spring/summer elements against those that are winter-coded. The most beautiful example was the badla embroidery, hand-done by Indian artisans, on felted wool knits that were layered to stylish effect.

BUDDY UP
The collection’s slouchy, mixed-wale corduroys were a nod to Tory’s first style influence, her father Buddy Robinson. They were shown in apricot and the same saffron yellow that he often wore.

TWENTIES SOMETHING
Cut in washed silks and sheer layers of chiffon, deconstructed drop-waist dresses served as a foil to the tailored and cozy elements of the show. The stand-away silhouettes echoed 1920s styles, a pivotal fashion moment that allowed women freedom of movement without the restriction of a corset.